Anthony Vaccarello has revealed his debut campaign for Saint Laurent. The designer was named the brand's new creative director in April, following Hedi Slimane's exit.
The new images don't give much away in terms of his upcoming collection, although they do hint as to the direction Vaccarello is going in. The black and white pictures feature portraits of 15 fresh new faces, including a couple, shot by US artist Collier Schorr in Paris. It's a step away from the brand's former campaigns, which have starred big names from fashion and music - from Jane Birkin to Joni Mitchell.
It looks very youthful, pared-back and softer than campaigns we're used to with Saint Laurent - think Calvin Klein meets The Kooples.
Vaccarello will make his debut at Saint Laurent in October.
On 4 April 2016, we wrote...
Anthony Vaccarello is Saint Laurent's new creative director, it has been confirmed.
He replaces Hedi Slimane, whose four-year tenure at the esteemed French fashion house ended last week.
"I am extremely happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent," said Francesca Bellettini, president and CEO of Yves Saint Laurent. "His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison.
"Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes," she continued. "He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent. I am enthusiastic about embarking on a new era with Anthony Vaccarello, and together bringing the maison further success."
François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering (the company that owns Saint Laurent), described Vaccarello as "a vivid and young force" with a "unique talent". The Belgian-born designer is known for his sexually charged collections and uncompromising vision.
"Anthony Vaccarello's unique style will greatly express the maison's creative signature and fashion authority, building on the brand's solid foundations, and further developing it to realise its full potential," said Pinault in a statement. "Together with the entire Yves Saint Laurent team, Anthony Vaccarello will strongly contribute to the maison's growing accomplishments."
It's still unknown as to what will happen to Vaccarello's eponymous line. His website is currently down and reads an error message.
Earlier today, we wrote...
Anthony Vaccarello has stepped down from his role at Versus Versace, ahead of an expected announcement confirming his new job as Saint Laurent creative director.
"While I'm sad to see him leave the Versace family, I wish Anthony Vaccarello tremendous success with his next chapter," said Donatella Versace today. "In the past several years, I have worked with three great young talents on Versus Versace: Christopher Kane, JW Anderson and Anthony Vaccarello.
"In each instance, their time on Versus Versace led to them making a huge advancement in their design career," she continued. "I appreciated the chance to work with each of these three designers, and I enjoyed seeing what they brought to a brand I truly love. I'm proud that Versus can be such a remarkable global platform for emerging design talent."
Vaccarello is expected to replace Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent, following his exit from the brand last week. Vaccarello, who also runs his own eponymous label, has held the title of Versus Versace since January 2015.
On Friday 1 April 2016, we wrote...
Hedi Slimane is leaving Saint Laurent after four years at its helm.
Since his arrival, Slimane has completely reinvented the brand adding a rock 'n' roll appeal that has largely boosted the brand's profits, doubling their sales.
"What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house," François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, said in a joint statement with Saint Laurent. "I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand."
Although there is no news on Slimane's next move, his successor is widely expected to be Anthony Vaccarello - a designer known for his sexually charged aesthetic.
Slimane has been a controversial character since joining the French fashion house. Upon his arrival four years ago, he changed the name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent. He then rebranded the company, making it appeal to a much younger customer and creating desirable pieces that sold out instantly. It was a very specific idea of cool and one with deep roots in the 90s grunge music scene.
While the commercial success of his work at Saint Laurent is unarguable, Slimane was seen by some as more of a stylist than a designer. He didn't take criticism of his collections well. In 2012, he called esteemed fashion critic Cathy Horyn "a school yard bully" and branded her agenda "seriously thick and predictable" after she critiqued his work. She was also banned from his shows. Slimane also ended a 15-year relationship with Parisian boutique Colette because the store sold a R-shirt with the slogan "Ain't Laurent without Yves".
However, regardless of his divisive nature, Slimane revitalised Saint Laurent to huge commercial success. But a new chapter for both the brand and Slimane awaits.
On 13 January 2016, we wrote...
Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane is reportedly leaving the French label, after three years at its helm.
The stylist-turned-designer is said to have failed to reach an agreement about the renewal of his contract with Kering, parent company of the Parisian fashion brand.
If talk turns out to be true, Slimane's departure will be yet another major shake-up in the fashion industry following the recent departures of Albert Albaz from Lanvin and Raf Simons from Dior. Replacements at both these houses have yet to be announced so could this also be a case of fashion's musical chairs?
Since taking up his position in 2012, Slimane has been a hugely divisive figure. On the one hand he's created a shift in-brand perception, credited for turning around the brand's fortunes, more than doubling sales figures. Simultaneously he's attracted criticism with accusing him of being a 'stylist' and a 'marketeer' rather than a designer in the traditional sense.
Another rumour currently circulating is that Saint Laurent has already identified a potential replacement - Anthony Vaccarello, currently creative director at Versus. Belgian Vaccarello would be a fairly obvious choice, embodying a youthful brand of sexiness and rock and roll - very much in the same vein to the house that Slimane built.
Saint Laurent has yet to confirm or deny the rumors so for now we'll be closely watching this space.
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